Material Culture and Textiles / Culture matérielle et textiles

North American Textiles:

A Selected Bibliography*

Adrienne D. Hood
Royal Ontario Muesum

*This bibliography should supplement that of Gail Fowler Mohanty found later in this volume. The works represented here are those that have been produced by people whose primary interest in the subject of textile history has centred primarily on the object. While there is some overlap, there is surprisingly little. The bibliography is not meant to be comprehensive, rather it is intended to suggest contours of the field. A great deal of literature exists that deals with a variety of textile types not included here such as costume, floor coverings and quilts.

Adrosko, Rita J. Natural Dyes and Home Dyeing. New York: Dover Publications, 1971. Originally published as Natural Dyes in the United States, 1968.
"All Sorts of Good Sufficient Cloth": Linen-Making in New England, 1640-1860. North Andover, Mass.: Merrimack Valley Textile Museum, 1980.
L'amour de Maman : la tradition acadienne du tissage en Louisane. La Rochelle: Musée du Nouveau Monde, 1983.
Beer, Alice Baldwin. Trade Goods: A Study of Indian Chintz in the Collection of the Cooper-Hewitt Museum of Decorative Arts and Design. Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1970.
Bemiss, Elijah. The Dyer's Companion. 2d ed. New York: Evert Duyckinck, 1815. Reprint, intro. by Rita J. Adrosko. New York: Dover, 1973.
Bird, Michael and Terry Kobayashi. A Splendid Harvest: Germanic Folk and Decorative Arts in Canada. Toronto: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1981.
Bolingbroke, Judith M. William and Mary Fabrics. Leigh-on-Sea: F. Lewis, 1969.
Bronson, J. and R. Early American Weaving and Dyeing: The Domestic Manufacturer's Assistant and Family Directory in the Arts of Weaving and Dyeing. Utica: 1817. Reprint, intro. by Rita J. Adrosko. New York: Dover, 1977.
Burnham, Dorothy K. The Comfortable Arts: Traditional Spinning and Weaving in Canada. Ottawa: National Gallery of Canada, 1981.
―. Warp and Weft: A Textile Terminology. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1980.
Burnham, Harold B. and Dorothy K. Burnham. "Keep Me Warm One Night," Early Handweaving in Eastern Canada. Toronto: University of Toronto Press, 1972.
Cooper, Grace Rogers. The Copp Family Textiles. Washington, D.C.: Smithsonian Institution Press, 1971.
Crosson, Janet Gray. Let's Get Technical: An Overview of Handwoven Pennsylvania Jacquard Coverlets. Lancaster, Pa.: Old Fibers, Weavers and Coverlets, 1978.
Cummings, Abbott Lowell, comp. Bed Hangings: A Treatise on Fabrics and Styles in the Curtaining of Beds 1650-1850. Boston: The Society for the Preservation of New England Antiquities, 1961.
Davison, Mildred and Christa C. Mayer-Thurman. Coverlets: A Handbook on the Collection of Woven Coverlets in the Art Institute of Chicago. Chicago: Art Institute of Chicago, 1973.
Earle, Alice Morse. Home life in Colonial Days. New York: Grosset and Dunlap, 1898. Reprint. Stockbridge, Mass.: Berkshire Traveller Press, 1974.
Emery, Irene. The Primary Structures of Fabrics, an Illustrated Classification. Washington, D.C.: The Textile Museum, 1966.
English Printed Textiles, 1720-1836. London: Victoria and Albert Museum, 1960, amended 1972.
La fabrication artisanale des tissus : appareils et techniques. Quebec City: Musée du Québec, 1974.
Fiske, Patricia L., ed. Imported and Domestic Textiles in Eighteenth-Century America. Proceedings of Irene Emery Roundtable on Museum Textiles, 1975. Washington, D.C.: The Textile Museum, 1976.
Gallagher, Constance Dann. Linen Heirlooms: The Story and Patterns of a Collection of Nineteenth Century Handwoven Pieces with Directions for Their Reproduction. Newton Centre, Mass.: Branford, 1968.
Geijer, Agnes. A History of Textile Art, A Selective Account. London: Pasold Research Fund in association with Sotheby Parke Burnet, 1979.
Gordon, Beverly, Shaker Textile Arts. Hanover, N.H.: University Press of New England, 1980.
Hargrove, John. The Weavers Draft Book and Clothiers Assistant. Facsimile of 1792 ed. New intro. by Rita J. Adrosko. Worcester: American Antiquarian Society, 1979.
Heisey, John W., comp. A Checklist of American Coverlet Weavers. Edited by Gail C. Andrews and Donald R. Walters. Williamsburg, Va.: The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation, 1978.
Homespun to Factory Made: Woolen Textiles in America, 1776-1876. North Andover, Mass.: Merrimack Valley Textile Museum, 1977.
The Homespun Textile Tradition of The Pennsylvania Germans. Introduction by Ellen J. Gehret and Alan G. Keyser. Harrisburg, Pa.: Pennsylvania Farm Museum of Landis Valley, Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission, 1976.
Irwin, John and Katharine B. Brett. Origins of Chintz: With a Catalogue of Indo-European Cotton-Paintings in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London and the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto. London: HMSO, 1970.
Little, Frances. Early American Textiles. New York: Century, 1931.
Lubell, Cecil, ed. Textile Collections of the World: Volume I, United States and Canada. New York: Van Nostrand Reinhold, 1976.
Mackley, Florence MacDonald. Handweaving in Cape Breton. Sydney, N.S.: privately printed, 1967. Reprint. 1977.
Montgomery, Florence M. Printed Textiles: English and American Cottons and Linens, 1700-1850. New York: A Winterthur Book, Viking Press, 1970.
—.Textiles in America, 1650-1850. New York: A Winterthur Book, Norton, 1984.
Nylander, Jane C. Fabrics for Historic Buildings: A Guide to Selecting Reproduction Fabrics. 3d ed. Washington, D.C.: Preservation Press, 1983.
Pettit, Florence H. America's Printed and Painted Fabrics, 1690-1900. New York: Hastings House, 1970.
Ponting, K.G. A Dictionary of Dyes and Dyeing. London: Mills and Boon, 1980.
Rambo, Sandra. Country Cloth to Coverlets: Textile Traditions in Nineteenth Century Central Pennsylvania. Lewisburg, Pa.: Union County Historical Society, 1981.
Safford, Carlton L. and Robert Bishop.America's Quilts and Coverlets. New York: Weathervane Books, 1974.
Schorch, Anita, ed. The Art of the Weaver. New York: Universe Books, 1978.
Séguin, Robert-Lionel. La civilisation traditionnelle de l'«habitant» au 17e et 18e siècles. Montreal and Paris: Fides, 1967.
Thornton, Peter. Baroque and Rococo Silks. New York: Taplinger, 1965.
Wilson, Sadye Tune and Doris Finch Kennedy. Of Coverlets: the Legacies, the Weavers. Nashville, Tenn.: Tunshede, 1983.
Adrosko, Rita J. "Anatomy of a Quilted Counterpane." The Weaver's Journal 7, no. 4 (Spring, 1984): 42-46.
Anderson, Clarita. "Artifacts Don't Lie." Ars Textrina 7 (1987): 9-30.
—. "Coverlet Bibliography." Ars Textrina 2 (1984): 203-215.
Baumgarten, Linda R. "The Textile Trade in Boston, 1650-1700." In Arts of the Anglo-American Community in the Seventeenth Century, edited by Ian M.G. Quimby, 219-273. Charlottesville: University Press of Virginia for the Henry Francis du Pont Winterthur Museum, 1975.
Burnham, Dorothy K. "Constructions Used by Jacquard Coverlet Weavers in Ontario." In Studies in Textile History, edited by Veronika Gervers, 31-42. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1977.
Congram, Marjorie. "Haircloth Upholstery." Nineteenth Century 6, no. 4 (Winter 1980): 48-50.
Cunningham, Patricia A. "Ohio's Woven Coverlets." Ars Textrina 2 (1984): 165-183. Fikioris, Margaret A. "Neoclassicism in Textile Designs by Jean-Baptiste Huet." Winterthur Portfolio 6 (1970): 75-110.
Forman, Benno M. "The Account Book of John Gould, Weaver, of Topsfield, Massachusetts: 1697-1724." Essex Institute Historical Collections 105 (1969): 36-49.
Gilfoy, Peggy S. "The Art of Indiana Coverlets." Ars Textrina 2 (1984): 60-93.
Glasgow, Vaughan L. "Textiles of the Louisiana Acadians." Antiques (August, 1981): 338-347.
Hilts, Patricia. "Roses and Snowballs: The Development of Block Patterns in the German Linen-Weaving Tradition." Ars Textrina 5 (1986): 167-248.
Hood, Adrienne D. and David-Thiery Ruddel. In "Artifacts and Documents in the History of Quebec Textiles." Edited by Gerald Pocius. Living in the Material World: Canadian and American Approaches to Material Culture. St. John's: ISER Books, Memorial University of Newfoundland, forthcoming 1990.
Montgomery, Florence M. "John Holker's Mid-Eighteenth Century Livre d'échantillons." In Studies in Textile History. Edited by Veronika Gervers. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1977: 214-231.
Rothstein, Natalie. "The Introduction of the Jacquard Loom to Great Britain." In Studies in Textile History. Edited by Veronika Gervers. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1977: 281-304.
Ruddel, David-Thiery: "The Domestic Textile Industry in the Region and City of Quebec, 1792-1835." Material History Bulletin 17 (Spring, 1983): 95-125.
Schoelwer, Susan Prendergast. "Form, Function, and Meaning in the Use of Fabric Furnishings: A Philadelphia Case Study, 1700-1775." Winterthur Portfolio 14 no. 1 (Spring 1979): 25-40.
Sloat, Caroline. "The Dover Manufacturing Company and the Integration of English and American Calico Printing Techniques, 1825-29." Winterthur Portfolio 10 (1975): 51-68.
Ulasewicz, Connie, Clarita Anderson, and Steven M. Spivack. "Analysis and Documentation of Coverlets." Ars Textrina 2 (1984): 113-155.
Anderson, Clarita. "Maryland Coverlets: The Artifacts, Technology, and the Weavers." Ph.D. thesis, University of Maryland, 1985.
Fowler, Gail Barbara. "Rhode Island Hand Loom Weavers and the Effects of Technological Change, 1780-1840." Ph. D. thesis, University of Pennsylvania, 1984.
Hood, Adrienne Dora. "Organization and Extent of Textile Manufacture in Eighteenth-Century, Rural Pennsylvania: A Case Study of Chester County." Ph.D. thesis, University of California, San Diego, 1988.